"I have had two of the Ford 5000s, one for 13 year, the other for about three years now. They are reliable, especially with the hydraulics. The problem I have experienced is the manual steering system, which now and then requires overhauling. "

"My Ford 5000 was a hand me down gift. It was part of a farm land management company and used mainly for spraying chemicals. It has an unknown number of hours on it and was maintained very poorly. It was given to me needing a cylinder head gasket, leaking from everywhere, decaying electrical system, and weak hydraulic functions. I am a mechanic so this is appealing to me as only parts cost and availability is a hindrance to me. I have repaired or replaced the following: cylinder head gasket, exhaust system and muffler, water pump, radiator, thermostat, oil bath air cleaner, power steering pump and lines, driver seat, lift arms, tires, starter, generator, instrument cluster, voltage regulator, grafted and fabricated a later suitcase weight system, lift piston and cylinder, resealed hydraulic pump, top cover and remotes."

"Does everything and more, that I wanted it for. I also got a 1955 Ford 800. It's pretty neat, but when I was tuning it up, I cleaned the distributor, and it has not started ever since. Someday, I will have to have someone fix it. Tried everything the book said to do. I just can't do it, that's all. Just got a 753 Bobcat too---it's great."

"A top class tractor that has been worked hard all it's life. Overhauled & new 6610 engine late 90s. Simple, 2wd, 8f 2r, 540 PTo, non-turbo 4.4L 4 cyl, great power & torque. Very noisy in cab, ear defenders needed on long work periods at full power. It's as useful, reliable & relevant now as it was in '74."

"Purchased second hand, the tractor was not well maintained, however I have gradually overhauled most parts with advice from friends. The power steering pump needed replacement, the starter motor and generator was overhauled and a ROPS required fitting. First task after the above was to replace the water pump, the exhaust manifold was cracked and replaced and shortly after the radiator failed. Unfortunately the wiring loom was burnt on the exhaust manifold which I replaced with a simple circuit for starting and battery recharging. The proof-meter was unserviceable so I have by-passed it. Some day I might consider a complete replacement of the electrical system. Fortunately I was able to purchase the two(?) tractor repair manuals for the model. Were there workshop manuals produced? Although they are written for a person with mechanical training I have been able to work through each problem with their assistance. For instance when the manual discusses dismantling the wheel spindle for instance it says "remove" a component without discussing just how to do it. After removing the steering drag link I found that I had to remove a woodruff key. I had no indication from the manual as to its appearance of how to remove it. A friend told me how but did not describe its appearance (like a half moon in profile). Knowing what to do is helpful but mechanics keep many secrets to themselves. A bit like popular cooking recipes. Last year after replacing the radiator for the second time (mechanical damage) I used a green colored antifreeze. Within a short time of operation green fluid started to appear from under the starter motor and a couple of other places around the join of the engine to the transmission. Of course I found that the problem was the rusted out welsh plugs (three) at the back of the engine. Replacing the welsh plugs required splitting the tractor and the local mechanic quoted around A$2000 which was out of my range. I decide to do it myself and followed the manual to do it. I did have to employ a mechanic to come to the farm and advise me and assist to remove the clutch and flywheel. After that the replacement of the welshplugs was straightforward. After rejoining the tractor (which lay idle in its split condition for about 9 months) I found that the fuel rack on the fuel pump was sticking. Now that was a huge problem as the going rate for complete overhaul of diesel fuel pumps "down under" is somewhere between A$2000 - A$3500. A huge challenge but of course still cheaper than a replacement tractor. I am currently awaiting the return of the pump and the cost. I have discovered that I have contributed to the fuel pump problem because I was unaware that there was lubricating oil involved let alone that the oil required changing at regular intervals. As a lone worker on our farm my tractor is an essential tool. When fencing or repairing fences I use the post-hole digger and the FEL to lift and place the posts. Grass slashing is a requirement for our farm as the grass grows too long for alpacas, so the slasher gets frequent use during spring and summer. When cutting firewood I use the tractor to lift and recover logs for cutting. "

"This farm has had 3 tractors on it over the years. It had been about 20 since the last previous one has been here. The first was an International 410, the second, a Long 45 hp. And this one. A Ford 5000, apparently a veteran of the Louisiana Dept of Transportation, more recently a hay maker. Had a bad dash "proof meter", no idea of its hours. Definitely abused, low oil psi, loose bolts, and too much oil/ grease in the can. A little t.l.c. and she's my babe! Everyone drools. Excellent power to weight ratio, a REAL workhorse!"

"I have Bush Hog loader, plenty lift power, no speed. Probably volume of pump."

"Really good, basic tractor. Mine has one set of remotes that I use to run an Allied 660 loader. Although showing its age, this is still a reliable old girl. Starts well in the cold, doesn't smoke. Parts are still largely available through the dealer, as well as after market parts. Good, solid, heavy tractor. Mine just needs some restoration. 67hp on the pto, so very strong."

"I have early mod 5000 and recently put Bushhog Loader on. The lift is strong but slow. I understand there is some type manifold I can put under remote control. Anyone familiar? Tks, e"