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"After the first week, the hydraulics leaked. Then I had trouble with the belly mower. Then there was shaving in the front axle and we had been checking the oil in it. It has been in the shop more than I have used it. John Deere service sucks. If I were to buy anything again I would truly check and see how their service departments are first. I has only 677 hours on it and it is sitting in my garage. They are saying it would cost $10,000 to fix. It's almost like whomever was making mine was not a good mechanic."
"The drive-over auto-connect mower is great! I have only removed and reinstalled it once, but it was very simple and straightforward. The 120 loader is also great. It is easy to connect and disconnect, and the hydraulic lines are easily accessible (much easier than on my 425). When removed, there is much less left on the tractor than is the case with the 425. Also, there is no need to open and close a barely accessible and difficult to operate valve to get hydraulics to the loader. Hydraulics are always available. The comfort is very good. The steering cylinders operate way too slowly, so steering is too slow. I can see one getting in trouble and having difficulty maintaining control (which has happened to me in normal driving) compared to the speed on the 425, which is just about ideal. The difference is almost like driving a 1960 Chevy compared to an XK-E. There is a lot of very hot air is directed right at the operator's feet. That may be great when snow-blowing in Minneapolis in the winter, but is terrible in Honolulu! The mower height selector is poorly designed. It operates on only one side of the lift linkage, so the mower tends to droop toward the right when it puts its weight on the height selector stop. On the 425 it operates on the center of the linkage, so the mower does not sag to one side. Also, the selector is labeled with numbers, which one would assume translate to inches of cut height, but that is not the case at all. As such the positions should be labeled ABCD instead of 1,2,3,4. I suspect the steps on the stop may wear with time causing inaccurate height selections. Had there been a similar linked, stop on the right side, it might be okay, but a center one would be better. I like the lock and 'load' positions, though, but I can easily do the same thing on the 425 with much more fine control. I have also found that the setting tends to drop to the next lower level, so when I set it to the 3.5 position I often find it has dropped to the 3.25 position and is scalping my lawn. Since I had to put the mower inside my Toyota Sienna when I picked up the tractor (it would not fit through the gate of the UHaul trailer I rented with the mower attached), I would have preferred to have the gauge wheels act as casters. My old mower (which was a real pain to install and remove from the 425) allows the wheels to be turned 90 degrees to allow it to roll out from under the tractor. That also makes it easier to roll in and out of a van or pickup truck bed. Maybe a single hole above maximum height setting could be drilled at 90 degrees from the others to allow setting the wheels at 90 degrees for such activities. But the drive over auto-connect features far outweigh any such deficiencies! The rollover protection system is, in my opinion, more of a hazard than a safety item. I have been driving garden tractors for 45 years, and I have never had an issue with an incipient tipping on my lot with a fairly good slope to part of the lawn. The system actually increases that likelihood, as it is a lot of weight up high, which raises the center of gravity significantly. Also, one must always be concerned about hitting the tail lights, which are on the outside of the rollover protection system and too close to the outside edge of the tractor. I like to mow close to a fence line where the ground slopes slightly toward the fence, and I can't get close enough without hitting the fence with the tail lights! Similarly, there is a palm tree that is just far enough away to fit the 54-inch mower between it and the fence, but I can't mow that area now because I would hit the fence with the tail lights. I can't get close to trees because the tail light or rollover protection system itself will hit the branches. Even a huge monkey pod tree is a hazard because the rollover protection system will hit the huge sloping branches that are no hazard at all without the rollover protection system. I was initially concerned about the turning radius of the 1023 being slightly larger than on my 425, but the turning radius is not the limiting factor when working around trees because the rollover protection system keeps one so far away. It would be a little better if the tail lights were mounted on the inside of the rollover protection system, where one would only need to be concerned about that strong structure hitting branches and such, but I expect that tail lights are some of the first things damaged on these tractors due to their exposure. I did move the tail lights to the inside of the rollover protection system and that is much better. One must spend so much time being sure the rollover protection system is clear of obstacles (such as tree branches, fences, roof overhangs, gutter downspouts, etc.) that attention is diverted away from actually driving the tractor safely. John Deere's answer is to stay about 5 feet away from anything (including tree drip lines) and spend more time weed whacking than mowing. If the rollover protection system were shaped at the top part to more closely conform to the shape of a human (maybe with head padding) and if the tail lights were mounted inside the lower posts, it would be a bit better and would not encourage one to simply remove the entire system as is now the case. John Deere should have made the rollover protection system easily removable, as there are cases when it makes the tractor unusable (think of an orchard). Instead it was designed to be almost impossible to remove because it acts as a spacer for other components at the bottom rear of the tractor frame. I was able to remove the top hinged part fairly easily, but to make it really usable I will have to cut part of the system off, which is permanent. While I know I will get used to it, I dislike having to start in neutral. The hydrostatic transmission, if one's foot is off the pedals, will hold the tractor sufficiently, and if the operator forgets to put the tractor in gear when starting on a slight slope (like a ramp to a garage) and releases the brake, away goes the tractor. This is not a big issue, and is a matter of experience and familiarity, but the 425 (which has only one speed and no neutral selection for its hydrostatic transmission other than pedal position) is much more straightforward. It would be easier to get on and off the tractor if the neutral position was all the way up and back rather than between H and L, as that would move the lever out of the way of one's legs and also have the benefit of making it more attractive to shut the tractor down in neutral. The seat 'safety' switch is also a hazard (more so on the 140 I also have than on the 1023), because if one leans to one side when losing traction to put more weight on the wheel (often necessary on the 140, seldom on the 1023), it often inadvertently causes the engine to die just when one needs maximum control. The RIO system is another 'nanny tractor' frustration that can in itself be a safety hazard. There should be a defeat switch that can be set at the beginning of a work session to disable it, because having to manipulate that switch every time one wants to work in reverse can cause hazards when working in certain areas. The manual for the 1023 has many labeling errors and poor descriptions. It took me some time to even find the section on opening the hood, for example, and the description made it sound like one uses a screwdriver as a prying handle rather than a push button actuator. The hood release is a poor design that should be able to be actuated by a finger, and can easily get out of adjustment, allowing the hood to pop open. Surely there is a better, more reliable, and simpler way! Another example is in the control descriptions, one of which has an A and an E swapped on the drawing (or the description). The 1023 is missing many items and features that the ads and brochures imply are included. Among these are the auto-connect mower feature (which ends up costing about $800 extra by the time it is installed by the dealer), some are apparently included in the 1025 but not the 1023E, also such as cruise control (which my 425 has), tilt steering wheel (which my 425 has), rear power take-off shaft cover (which my 425 has), rockshaft depth stop, seat suspension, arm rests, etc. John Deere should have a comparison list on all their information brochures and web pages that make these differences clear. Maybe they would sell more 1025s. If I were doing this all over again, I would look much more thoroughly at a Kubota tractor."
"It has nice quality and performance. So far I have put about 20 hours on it and most of it was using the loader. I have moved brush, dug out rocks in the yard, transplanted trees, dug holes for rocks and transplanting at least 3 feet deep, and I used it to dig out for pouring concrete and installing gravel base. The mower works great! I leave the loader on and the mower off until I need to mow. Space in my garage is scarce and if I put the wheels down I can move the mower deck by hand if it is in my way. I am extremely happy with this tractor! I hope to buy a few more attachments."
"I bought the 1023E because I have a long and steep gravel driveway ( they call them ' roads ' here in Maine). I decided that a snow blower would be a better approach to snow removal rather than just pushing it around with the pickup truck. I also purchased a box blade and a scraper blade with which to maintain the gravel road which is prone to erosion. I also purchased a soft cab from the Original Tractor Cab folks and wrestled with its installation, ultimately having to make some modifications to it. I concur with other owners who give the 1023E high marks for being a tough little machine, and with a previous reviewer who objected to the exhaust system."
"My 1023E is a great tractor and it works well. It needs 3000 RPMs to get 23 horsepower from the engine, but still performs very well. It lost a star because the exhaust pipe is facing towards the front. Exhaust fumes blow back towards the driver and all you smell is diesel fumes. It needs some kind of way to divert the exhaust to the side. Once I fix the exhaust problem, I will be 100% happy with my purchase. "
"When I purchased this with all the attachments I needed, I was north of $24.000 with a 1023E, 54-inch drive on deck, H120 loader, power flow bagger, 54-inch snow blower, 42-inch forks, quick 3-point hitch, weight box, the original tractor cab, steering wheel spin knob, and John Deere baseball hat. Even though it was a sticker shock the value of the 1023E and attachments was high as well. It starts every time with a puff of white smoke. This is common and noted by many as normal. The dealer had the ideal set at 1400 rpm. It felt and sounded very uncomfortable, so I adjusted it to 1500 and it is much happier. The seat, pedal, wheel and controls feel well placed and positioned. It is easy walk through mounting and dismounting the tractor. Fuel consumption is a little high but most everyone states it gets much better between 30-50 hours. Attachment change outs are fast and easy once you have done it a couple times. Mowing grass is done in low range two wheel drive but forward pedal to the floor board. It gives a even cut. The bagger collects about 80i percent of the clippings and the same percentage with leaves. The bagger is not a quick attachment. The rear bagging bracket requires tools to take off the tractor. It heavy and cumbersome. The H120 loader is a beast. It works well and is easy to operate. I have spread 40 yards of tops soil and 60 yards of processed concrete. My H120 made short work of the volume. It is a very easy on/off attachment. The 42-inch forks are from Titan. They are John Deere green in color. It is very easy to change them out from bucket to forks and back again. They work better than expected. I have not done heavy lifting with them but have used for many small uses. The snow blower attachment works well, but the instructions on installing the mounting bracket are like most instructions you find on things; never used by the person using the attachment. Once I figured it out, its another attachment that is a 5-minute change out. How it works? There will be more to come on that in the Spring. The original cab is okay at best. The instructions for assembly were written by the same person who wrote the snow blower attachment. The quality was designed to a price point. It will keep you dry, but long term value is questionable. I am thinking maybe 3-4 years before it's ready for the dump. I hope I am wrong. Given a chance to do it over, I think a Curtis Cab would have been on the list. The spinner knob on the steering wheel is great. Buy one. The baseball hat is mandatory for being admitted into the most "redneck" bar in town."
"Let's start by saying I feel this is a dealer problem instead of manufacture problem. I picked up my 1023 with a front-end loader and Q/E 54e deck installed. My first problem is that when the bucket is down just about to touch the drive way, one side of the bucket touches first. I checked the tire pressure and found that it was 8 pounds low. I filled and topped off all of tires check. After that, the mower deck wasn't level anymore. I looked at the linkage and found the lift bar and key were not welded exactly perfectly. I called John Deere. They said they do have a problem and to lower the left front tire pressure to correct the problem. I called two other dealers who said they never heard about the tire thing but if it helps to try it. Do a warranty on the lift bars and stop this insanity! I have to let the mower deck ride on the wheels to keep the deck from eating my lawn."
"I purchased the mower deck, the front end loader and the brush mower. All is GREAT except the mower deck.Asolutely the worst mower deck I have ever had. It was a problem from the beginning , it wouldn't connect. The dealer would come out and tried to connect then finally take it to to the shop. It now gaps the grass digs in and make a mess. I love the tractor and the implements but the DECK is absolutely not John Deere quality."
"i bought the tractor to find some disappointments, the main one being that the mower deck hydraulics are connected and operated together with the 3 point hitch. if u have the rototiller on the back and don't remove it it will go down when u let the mower down or vise versa. bad feature, also does not come with a rear work lite !!! not even a small one ??? the drive over auto deck is fabulous !!! other than that is is a great tractor but i already have traded it off for a 1025r that had the hydraulic features i wanted. tks."
"We bought our 1023E new, kept it in the garage, were horrified to find out that when we took it out of the garage to mow that it made huge gouges in our yard. We worked on it for hours, finally took it back to the dealer and I must say that it now mows pretty good. However, the ROPS prevents us from mowing even CLOSE to the trees in our yard. The engine is very loud and wearing head phones doesn't kill the drone. The hood does not fit our tractor. It is too small, in my opinion. First there was twice the gap on the left side of the hood as the ride and then they adjusted the hood and now the gap is equal on both sides, but it does not cover the shroud(?) or the side of the tractor. The hood also binds up against the gauge face and there is a piece on the right side of the tractor, which is now gaping out from the tractor. The JD dealer says there is nothing they can do as it was not made right. They say that if they adjust it more, the hood will not latch. This machine is considered a nightmare by this owner."