"I have always been a John Deere man. The tractor I replaced with the Kubota was a John Deere that was made in India, so it really wasn't a John Deere anyway. The hydraulics were weak, and the whatever engine it had in it was weak as well. It said Yanmar, but dealer said it was a John Deere engine. NOT!! I assumed that when I got ready to buy a different tractor it would be a John Deere. I wanted a 60 horsepower John Deere tractor, not a tractor made in India with John Deere's name on it. So being the rules changed I decided to look at other makes of tractors. I have read other people's reviews and I would say if you're having weak hydraulics on your la 1153 loader or no power on hills you definitely have a warranty issue.I have had some loads that I have pulled that have weighed at least 10000 pounds and I don't have a problem going up a hill in the tallest gear and at 2220 rpms. I carry big bales of hay. One on the front, one on rear and have no issues. I run tractor about 1200 rpm to 1400 rpm's. Tractor does everything I needed to do and then some. I also am tall and have never bumped into the throttle lever."

"I have a Kubota M6040 with a LA1153 loader that I bought new. While moving some snow recently, one of the 2 main pins that holds the loader assembly in place, fell out. I was pushing snow into a bank and the failure caused the loader to swing to the left thereby bending the main frame on the left side. My dealer, Chappell tractor of Milford, NH said it will not be covered on warranty because there is no broken part that caused the problem. The poor design of the pin that does not keep the pin from falling out is not a "broken part" so tough luck for me. The service manager said that both Kubota and New Holland have the same pin design with a sliding pin the goes through a hole on the frame. It's obvious that a jarring of the tractor during normal plowing operation could allow the pin to dislodge and fall out. He said it has never happened before. My previous Kubota had a lynch pin through the main pins that prevented them from falling out. In fact, the LA1153 owners manual states under "Reinstalling the Loader Important: 6. Stop the engine. Reinstall the mounting pins and secure them with the spring pins." Only problem is there are no spring pins or holes for them to be installed. So someone thinks there were or should be spring pins on the assembly like I do. I talked to Kubota headquarters and was told the Kubota district service manager would call me back. I got no such call."

"I compared the major brands of tractor I could purchase in my town before I decided on the Kubota. In comparison to the JD and the NH (which are both Indian made) the Kubota won the contest hands down. The comfort of the machine and the ergonomics are very comfortable and everything is within easy reach. The only thing I would like to change is the throttle location. I'm a pretty big guy and my leg has a tendency to bump the throttle and lower the RPM. I did have a cylinder on the loader go bad after I first bought it but that was covered by the warranty and haven't had a single problem since."

"I traded in my Ford 1710 for this larger Kubota. I needed more "oomph" to do driveway maintenance in the summer when it turns to concrete. I also needed higher capacity with the FEL for lifting, moving, stacking larger pine trees. I have been very pleased with the tractor---it has never faltered in performing any of the tasks I have initiated."

"Shortly after using the loader I noticed a hydraulic system. Dealer says bring it in. My opinion is come and get it. I shouldn't have to bring in a defective machine. After looking at reviews and forums I was able to take it in. Dealer said control lever cables needed adjusting. Before I could lift an object off the ground a bit and curl to lift the rest to be able to move it. After adjustment I didn't notice much of any difference except less curl power. With a bucket of dirt or a round bale on spear, the steering pulsates as you turn the wheel unless the engine is reved up closer to 2000 rpm. Even if the lift cylinders are in the power position the loader will not pick the rear end of tractor off the ground. The gear shifter is difficult to shift into most gears especially third. I have the R4 tires which are shorter than the R1. With the tractor at @2200 in "road gear" 4th in high range, the engine will loose 800 to 900 rpm pulling a grade by itself without any implements. I researched all makes before purchase and Kubota had the largest displacement engine. This engine doesn't have horses, they are ponies, ZERO Torque. It would have been $1,500 to get the M7040 which would come with locking type front differential, cast iron rear wheels and @10 more hp. I was told I could "turn up" mine to get the extra 10hp. After my research I couldn't see how due to both having the same engine rated at the same rpm for rated hp. After warranty went off I was ready to have those 10hp. Some M7040 have a turbo and some don't. My pump is not the same as the 7040, so it can't be just turned up to get those 10HP. Granted turning one up is turning up the rpm. This thing already is screaming at @2600 to get it's rated hp. I did not turn it up. I compared apples to apples on every make. The Deere would have cost me $6600 more. Now I wish I would have spent the $6600. The tractor is such short wheelbase that it rides like a log wagon. I have put fluid in the rear tires to help with the ride as well as traction. It helps but is minimal. My machine has every possible option. The rear squirter for the wiper doesn't even squirt on the glass. It squirts flat (parallel) across the glass and hits the wiper a bit. The seat has been noisy since new and has gotten worse with the squeaking. "

"Great tractor. Cab is really well designed. Can see very well all around the tractor. Has ben very dependable with no problems at all. 6040 is the perfect size for what I do."

"It has exceeded my needs. I have a root grapple and have picked up entire oak trees and moved to an area to burn, a little light in rear with just the box blade on. I also got a land pride cutter 3672. 190 hp gear box and 3/16 steel. I went up to my other property and found in 3 years trees were taking over. I just ran over 4 inch trees and kept on going. Mowed trees and stuff for 7 hours that would have taken 4 days as grass with old B7510."

"I've had problems with the shifter cable ever since I bought this tractor new in 2007. It has always been difficult to shift gears. Recently, shifter cable broke altogether and could not get into gear. Does anyone else have this problem?"

"I originally owned a Ford 1700 4x4. Used it for 20 years digging, grading, plowing etc on the property. I was never able to grade my mile long driveway in the summer. I upgraded three years ago and wish I would have done this 15 years ago. Now I can cut thru the cement like summer driveway and level, grade & smooth as I always wished I could. This bigger tractor pulls a much bigger back blade which shortens my snow clearing in the winter. I do my own routine maintenance and its made easy by logical location of filters, drain plugs, belts etc. I've never had a moments problems with the tractor. This includes easy starting even down to our winter temps of -25F. I use back blade, bucket loader, disk plow, three bottom plow, chipper and snow blower with my tractor."

"The tractor so far has been reliable without any breakage. I find that it has ponies and not horses as it gets scared as it sees a slight grade change. Loader is weak. To get warranty work Kubota's website says owner is to take machine to dealer for work! What kind of support is that! At the time I purchased this unit I paid @$400 less than a Kioti and @$6600 less than a Deere comparing apples to apples. Dealer and Kubota told me better off saving the @$1500 over the M7040 and just "turn" mine up after warranty is over as both tractors are the same. Now as I try to bump mh HP to M7040 HP I find they made ones with turbo and it isn't a matter of just upping the RPM to get more HP. The pumps are different. Now knowing that I would have gladly paid the extra to have gotten the HP and locking front axle and if I remember correctly cast iron rear wheels. Dealer says loader is fine. I have yet to place the pins in the power setting to see if it is better. Tractor won't pick the rear of the machine off the ground with fluid filled tires. Also gear shifter is not easy to use along with the range selector. I guess that is why the Deere is @$6600 more. will pay the $6600 more next machine, at least they will come pick it up for warranty work! "